Bonita has just returned from a two week visit to her beloved Belize and the timing was perfect. Punta Gorda hosted its 5th annual "Cacao Festival", an event where local cacao growers show off their Maya Gold...chocolate that is! The festival kicked off with a wine & chocolate tasting garden party at a seaside inn. There were samples galore from chocolate with chili to ginger chocolate and everything in between. The turn out was great, about 400 people, and I got to rub elbows with some of the community's leading citizens. This event was in total contrast to the typical social gatherings I usually experience there. Meanwhile, back at my hacienda, my Maya family and I got caught up on each others lives as we swung in the hammock on the veranda. We hosted an occasional overnight guest who had traveled from a distant village to attend our church service. Since the opening of the Prensa de Paz Church in January there has been significant growth. I attended church a few times while there and even led the children's fellowship on Sunday morning! Most of the service is in Ketchi and my Maya family is convinced that they can teach me to speak it...thus far I can say "good, thank you, and beautiful"...it's a start...when in doubt I just say "good"!
I stopped by Miss Emma's shrimp farm in Hopkins and found the fruit trees dripping with mangos, wax apples, papaya, and jack fruit. We spotted a toucan while filling our bags to the brim with ripe, juicy mangos. It is so exciting to see tropical birds in the wild. And the colors of the birds, flowering trees & shrubs are beyond description. The flamboyant tree has flaming orange blossoms that dominate the landscape. When I think of Belize I think of brightness and color and lusciousness.
Being a former British colony, Belize still celebrates the Queen's birthday. All the children had a holiday from school so Elvira and I packed a picnic lunch of burritos and off we went with a car load of children to Blue Creek. The waters are clear and blue and you can see a variety of fish swimming below the surface. It is truly a spectacular river with cool, sparkling deep pools and cascading waterfalls. Swimming against the current the kids and I would stand under the falls and let it massage our backs being careful not to let it rip our "bab" suits right off!
One afternoon we heard that a cow had strayed onto our neighbor's land. Apparently the solution is not to try to herd it back to it's own farm but to shoot it. As time went by we heard the fatal shot and Ponciano ran off to lend a hand with a few of the older boys in tow. A short time later, Carlos, 9, came sauntering down our drive proudly holding the liver and heart...our supper! With great enthusiasm, Elvira immediately took to chopping up this fresh delicacy which would later become the key ingredient for a delicious soup. I was more interested in seeing what the men were doing with the cow so off I went following Carlos across the pasture and into the bush. By now dusk had fallen and I had reservations about walking through the bush in the disappearing light, but my curiosity got the better of me. We approached the area where the motionless carcass laid as Abelino busily completed the butchering. Two of the boys offered to carry the head by it's horns while it took two grown men to carry the hind quarter on their backs. Somehow I just couldn't picture any of the men or children I know enthusiastically carrying bloodied cow parts. The beauty in this somewhat gruesome scene is that every morsel of this cow would be eaten and nothing left to waste. These people have known hunger all too often and celebrate the opportunity to fill their bellies.
Right now it's the dry season in Belize and the perfect time to go "striking" for fish. Most the the village men and a few of the young boys paddle down the river and spend an entire day in search of tuba fish and snook. They don't use poles and hooks but a sling shot type contraption with a spear on it that is tethered by a string. They dive under crocodile infested waters and hunt for these fish, keeping a watchful eye out for any crocs that might be in the vicinity. Is that not unbelizeable?? The men make light of it with me and tell me that there are no crocs in the river but I know differently. Siliano, a villager and registered guide, told me they exist. I spoke with him after he had been "striking" and he said that it is dangerous and that one must be vigilant at all times. Ponce & Alberto have promised to take me striking...I'll be content to watch from the dorey and keep a lookout for any crocs lurking below the surface.
"Winding Creek Maya Lodge"... our goal is to be open for business by January 1, 2012. Ponciano says he is able to make much of the furniture out of local wood and is beginning to collect the wood now. We still need to finish the kitchen tile work, cabinetry, and bring water to the building. We can at least offer rooms to guests at a reasonable price if things are not 100% complete. I trust that Ponce & Elvira will be terrific hosts. Ours is not going to be a lodging experience for everyone however I am convinced that guests who prefer this type of accommodation will leave enriched and renewed by the interactive nature of what we will offer.
Belizeans love their music...it is as varied as the many distinct cultures that exist in this diverse Caribbean country. The marimba, a primitive xylophone, is a traditional musical instrument of the Mayas. Rina, Toto & I were fortunate to attend a performance where 3 young Maya men created the most melodic sounds as they each hammered out different rhythms. It seems that no matter how many times I return to Belize I am continually introduced to new cultural experiences which lead me to a deeper appreciation for the Belizean people and their history.
